Winter in Iceland: G Adventures Golden Circle and Northern Lights Tour

Having used G Adventures for my solo trip to Thailand, I knew the tour to Iceland in winter, to hopefully see the aurora borealis, was sure to be exceptional.

Why G Adventures?

1. Small groups of 10-12 like-minded travelers who like a bit of adventure on a trip.
2. Affordable pricing for shared rooms or single rooms for solo travelers.
3. The guides are called Chief Experience Officers and are local English-speaking experts from the area, whospeak the language and strive to ensure an exceptional travel experience.

Day 1

My sister and I took the overnight flight from New York to Iceland and spent the first morning at the Blue Lagoon. Busses are available so no car was needed. We pre-booked the comfort package which includes entrance, a Silica mud mask, use of towel and one drink from the bar. The warm geothermal spa waters relax and rejuvenate you after the long flight. The lagoon is large and surrounded by lava rocks that look otherworldly, but the water is walkable; never more than 4′ 7″ deep.

After a few hours splashing about in the thermal hot spring, we boarded another short bus ride to our hotel in Reykjavik. A small walkable city, we took in the sights, hopped on a whale watching boat from the city docks and ate authentic Icelandic food. 

Whale watching is popular activity however we did not see any whales due to the rough waters. We were offered a return coupon voucher for another visit.

We met our G Adventures chief experience officer and the 13 people we would be traveling with during the next four days at our hotel after dinner. Twelve women and 1 husband ranging in age from 22-75 listened to our young Icelandic guide named Saga. Saga explained where we would be going and what we would be doing while she drove us, cooked for us and regaled us with Icelandic facts and fables throughout the trip.  We were excited and ready for an early start the next day.

Day 2

After breakfast we boarded the Mercedes tour van and headed straight to the Lava caves on the fields near the Bláfjöll Mountains. The wind nearly tore the door from the van as we carefully stepped out into the cold. Saga gave us each a set of crampons to attach to our boots to help us not slide on the ice as we walked toward the cave.

The desolate, frozen landscape is often referred to as looking like the moon. I was a bit surprised when she pointed to a hole in the earth with a rope and announced “here is the cave”.  I wondered if it was too late to go back and sit in the bus.

Not being one to miss and adventure, I grabbed the rope and side stepped beneath the earth’s surface into the Raufarholshellir cave. Reminiscent of a James Michener novel, our guide described how Iceland was formed from flowing volcanic lava. We walked and crawled through rocky formations and tasted icicles made from the purest clean water.

As we explored further inside, our CEO was sure to inform us of the current active volcanos and earthquakes in Iceland. All I could think of was those boys stuck in the cave in Thailand who had to be rescued through tunnels of water a few years ago.  Exploring caves was never on my bucket list.

Just Breathe.

Well, I bravely kept walking or crouching along. The ice formations were beautiful and tasty, but Saga warned us to not not to step on the icicles on the ground. She explained those icicles were really elves, and you don’t want to get the elves upset. They will play tricks on you. Elves, trolls and Viking lore is taken quite seriously in Iceland, so be careful when warned!

After the Lava Cave Hike, Saga took us to Thingvellir National Park. Several Game of Thrones episodes took place at this park.

This is the location where two geographic regions or tectonic plates divide. North American and European plates drift apart about 1 inch each year tearing Iceland apart. The rift valley is the only place on earth that you can walk a path through two continents on either side.

Our guide dropped us off at the top of the path by the visitor center. We snapped photos then walked through a trail where the first parliament of Iceland General Assembly took place from  900 AD – 1798. The pond where they drowned witches, or as our guide said “independent women”, was also pointed out.

The large natural lake welcomes scuba divers who can see quite clearly underwater, even in winter!  I’ll do outdoor hot springs, but diving in freezing lakes during the winter is too much of an adventure for me!

Back to our van and continuing around the Golden Circle we observed several tourists who had rented cars. We noticed them because they drove off the road while trying to get a better look at the famous Iceland horses and were now caught in the snow.  Seeing this only confirmed how smart we were to sign up for the G Adventures tour.

Our next stop was the Geysir Hot Springs with several places to eat at the rest stop.  The big geyser called Strokkur geyser goes off every 5 minutes but you need to be ready as it doesn’t last long.  The heated smaller geysers with the snow covered mountains behind and low sun give such an eerie yet inspiring feeling.  So happy to be alive and get to see this!

Gullfoss waterfall was the next stop and this one took my breath away.  The magnitude of the falls, the force of the water and the ice covered river along with the high winds was incredible. Gulfoss is Iceland’s best-known waterfall, and the most striking and impressive thanks to its double tiered waterfall plunging a total of 105 feet. 

 We climbed the steps to the top on our visit. I’m surprised no one blew off the cliff.  We needed crampons to climb to the higher level but the view everywhere was amazing.

We continued our Golden Circle Tour from the waterfalls to see the famous Icelandic horses. Our tour guide kept us on a tight schedule and knew just where to stop so we could feed the beautiful Iceland furry horses some treats and get a fabulous visit and photo opportunity! Tame, wild and friendly – we loved petting these beautiful animals.

G Adventures strives to provide small family-run hotels for the stay. We arrived at Altroos, a home on a farm with its own horses.  Ten rooms with private baths accommodated us in either double or single occupancy.  

Solo travelers always feel included and welcome on a G Adventure tour. While we showered and rested, Saga prepared a traditional fish dish for all of us.  We sat around the large table together and shared stories as we took turns running outside to check for Northern Lights in the night sky.

This small farm house would be an exceptional place for viewing of the northern lights, had they decided to be visible that first night. It was a great day full of spectacular scenery and winter adventures.

Day 3

Breakfast was prepared by the home owner, then we went off for our hike.  

Our Chief Experience Officer decided we were an adventuresome group and would appreciate a challenging hike. She took us to Reykjadalur, or steam valley, located in the Hengill area named for Mt. Hengill, an active volcano that has not erupted in 2000 years.

In the summer, this trail is very busy, but in winter not so much. We began our climb up the snowy path, past geysers and mud pools, to find the warm natural river. It was cold and misty on the trail. We made it two miles up hill, over treeless snow covered mountains. At one point my sister from Florida went off the trail to build a snowman.

Our destination was the part of the river called a bath, however it was only about one foot deep. Oh well, we disrobed to our bathing suits and took a dip.  

The 13 of us sat in the shallow stream and enjoyed the hot spring.  Changing from a wet swimsuit to dry clothes and boots with crampons was a bit of a challenge behind a small wooden privacy wall, but if our 75 year old grandma on the trip could do it, so could I!

Walking back down proved challenging as it started to rain quite steadily.  My coat, snow pants, gloves and even boots were not nearly as waterproof as I had presumed.  I was soaked through by the time we got to the bus.  Lucky for me back at the house I had a hot shower and a lamb dinner (that Saga also made) waiting for me.  The rush of accomplishment after such physical exertion can really work up an appetite.

We gathered together for another night of hoping for the Aurora Borealis, but the weather conditions were not ideal. We walked outside a few times and enjoyed the crisp air, but only saw clouds that looked a little greenish.

Day 4

We woke early to board our lovely warm van and tour along scenic the southern coast. Highlights of this day included Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls, the Sólheimajökull glacier and lunch before returning to Reykjavik.

My clothes and boots did not dry overnight so lucky for me I had some plastic bags to slip my foot into before putting on my soggy boots. Good idea to bring 2 pairs of boots, lots of socks and waterproof clothing on this trip. I knew that in advance, but I really mean it when I say good waterproof outerwear is necessary for outdoor adventures in Iceland.

Saga offered optional activities for this day. Some of our group paid the extra to get heavy duty crampons and axes and slowly climb with a guide up the Sólheimajökull glacier.  

With receding glaciers and the awe of the glacier, it was enticing. We enjoyed seeing the glacier, but did not feel the need to climb it.

My sister and I chose to visit the black sand beach near Vik. Our tour guide left part of the group at the glacier and took us for a private tour. 

First, we went to Reynisfjara beach to admire the black pebble beach, basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar offshore rock formations. Most amazing site I have seen yet, and everything on this trip has been awesome and inspiring.

The water at this beach seemed calm enough, but people have been known to be hit by powerful, sudden waves. The strong currents and undertows just off the shore sweep people away every year as they have ignored the warnings. You can be swept out to sea in an instant – often too far for a secure rescue.

Between 2013 and 2023, there have been 12 serious emergency calls to the infamous beach, and five people have died there.

Saga took us in the van over to Dyrhólaey peninsula known for the puffin’s nesting area in the summer.

We admired the large rock arch and breathtaking views of the beautiful black lava sea stacks called Reynisdranga. From high up on the cliffs you can even see Mýrdalsjökull glacier.

This beach walk and scenic overlook was an unexpected treat. This side trip was not part of the trip itinerary, yet exactly what we wanted to experience.

The flexible nature of a G Adventures tour is that they allow for some additions to the set itinerary. That is one of the reasons I keep signing up and recommending their tours.

We picked up the rest of our group who found the glacier hike challenging yet absolutely loved the expereince.  Lunch was pasta, soup and bread at the restaurant next to Skógafoss waterfall.  I pictured the scene with the character Floki looking up at those falls in the History Channel series “Vikings”.  I love that show.

Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 82 feet and a drop of 200 feet. Due to the amount of spray, the waterfall consistently produces, a single or double rainbow normally visible on sunny days.

Saga took us to one more waterfall, Seljalandsfoss. We hiked past Skógafoss to the left where a waterfall is hidden away behind a crevice. You can squeeze along the river against the wall to go inside, but you will get wet. Since I had already been wet and we still had a two hour drive in the van to Reykjavik, I took pictures from outside. So pretty.

We arrived back at the Kea Storm Hotel centrally located in the capital city.  Saga invited us to all a farewell dinner at the Kex Hostel, a short walk away.  Hostels have changed since I backpacked around Europe in the 1980’s.  It’s a lively scene with a bar and yummy food and lots of people just chillin out in the main area.  They have rooms with bunk beds as well as private rooms.  Definitely worth the consideration for my solo women traveler friends.

We shared how even though we didn’t see the Northern Lights, this trip exceeded our expectations and we agreed that Saga was a wonderful guide.  Sharing photos of our amazing time on What’s App we celebrated life and Saga’s birthday with a toast  to new friends.

We spent our last with new friends but had the opportunity to take a not included excursion to chase the northern lights in a small bus. The bus is out for all hours of the night searching, but it was cold. The weather conditions were not promising so we opted to enjoy the company with the group, while taking a few peaks at the sky that evening from the roof of our hotel.

Day 5

The last day in Reykjavik was free time on our own. We visited the Aurora Reykjavik Northern Lights Center which entertains with an interactive learning exhibit and a movie theater showcasing some of the  magnificent auroral displays captured all over Iceland.

The hop on hop off bus was recommended but we found we could walk throughout the city.

We climbed to the top of the Lutheran church called Hallgrímskirkja right in the middle of the city. We ate lunch at across from the church at Cafe Loki known for its traditional Icelandic food. I ordered the Icelandic plate which came with mashed fish (plokkfiskur) resting on rye bread, smoked trout on rye bread, smoked lamb on flatbread, dried fish with a side package of butter, and fermented sharks in little cubes with some tooth picks. The fermented shark smells bad, like ammonia, but it is the thing to try in Iceland.

We also visited the Perlan museum. Iceland’s iconic attraction and nature museum, offering panoramic views, interactive exhibits, and a unique glacier experience.

Another fun museum we visited was the small Saga museum to learn about the history of Iceland.

The tour was a great way to visit some of the best highlights of this country as well as some remote areas.  Traveling solo as a woman can be challenging but that’s no reason to not give it a try.  Tour groups like this G Adventures tour is a great way to experience a new place and do things you would never do on your own.

The roads in Iceland are not too crowded in winter and relatively flat.  You could do this your self by renting a car, but I was nervous to drive in the winter in a foreign country.  The weather is unpredictable with snow or rain and high winds and icy roads common. Our guide made all the difference by providing us a safe environment and sharing her love and knowledge of her own country.

I’m so glad we came to Iceland and once I reflect and put some of my 600 photos into an album, I’ll start to look into my next travel adventure!

Read more about visiting Reykjavik on our own here:  2 Days in Reykjavik